Stardust Years is a brilliantly unique shop on the Winchester High Street, specialising in vintage and historical fashion items. I recently had the pleasure of visiting the shop for the first time and at once fell in love with the beautiful items on display. After my visit, I approached the owner Karen Fitzsimmons, and she kindly agreed to answer a few questions I had about historical fashion and the growing popularity of vintage-wear.
Q: When did Stardust Years open?
A: July, 2013
Q: Where do you get the items from?
A: That’s a bit like asking Tinkerbell where she gets her Magic Fairy Dust! All I can say is that I go out and source all our stock myself. We do not buy over the counter so, if you’re reading this and you have a treasure to sell please don’t come to us as you’ll only be disappointed.
Q: It must be hard to part with some of the beautiful items on sale, what has been your favourite item that you’ve encountered?
A: Oh, it is! I think there are too many to choose from but if I had to choose it would be some of the Rayne Shoes that I had when we first opened the shop. As a result of researching Rayne Shoes, I met Nick Rayne, the son of Sir Edmund Rayne who steered the family business during its most successful years. Rayne Shoes supplied many Hollywood stars with shoes, including Marlene Dietrich and Vivien Leigh. They also made the Queen’s wedding shoes.
Nick bought some of our shoes for the Rayne Shoe Archive (you can see some of our shoes – including the pair we donated) in the book, Rayne, Shoes for Stars which accompanied last year’s exhibition at the Fashion & Textile Museum. We were invited to the Book Launch at the Dorchester Hotel, held in the famous Oliver Messel Room. It was wonderful. I was very sad at parting with the shoes so soon after I had found them – my husband took a photo of me saying goodbye to them when we were packing them for the courier’s collection! However, they led me on an exciting journey and I know their beauty and craftsmanship will be enjoyed by so many more people in the future.
Q: When did your interest in vintage and historical fashion begin and why?
A: I loved Cinema from an early age and I grew up watching fabulous films from the 1930s, 40s and 50s which gave me my love for the fashions of the past. They were so creative and glamorous.
Vivien Leigh as Scarlett O’Hara in ‘Gone With The Wind’ (1939)
Grace Kelly as Lisa Carol Fremont in ‘Rear Window’ (1954)
Q: Is there a particular era that you feel drawn to, and if so why is this? (Would you say it was based on the aesthetics of the era or a historical interest? Or both?)
A: My favourite eras are the 40s and 50s. Across those decades there was so much diversity and creativity, even though we were plunged into a World War. I love the tailoring, the detail and the care that went into the creation of accessories as well as clothing. Designers of some of the most glamorous fashions of the day were also involved in developing Utility Clothing (eg Digby Morton and Hardy Amies) and functional, eccentric items such as the Gas Mask Shoulder Bag (H Wald).
Q: What era of clothing is the most popular among your customers, and why do you think this is?
A: I think the 1950s is the most popular due to a number of factors. There are the customers who are ardent vintage fans and attend a lot of vintage dances and weekend events. The most popular period for vintage events seems to be the 1940s and the 1950s. Then there are the customers who are looking for a dress for a special event and find the choice on the High Street limiting. These customers find our 1950s rails attractive because of the diversity of styles that ran throughout the decade. Whatever your figure, you can find something that suits you and looks wonderful. The 40 and 50s were a time of great social change and these changes are reflected in contemporary fashion.
Q: What is the strangest/quirkiest vintage item you’ve encountered in the shop?
A: I can’t think of anything strange! I always have to consider who would buy whatever I source. What I do love about vintage is that you can find quirky elements such as a 1940s clasp on a handbag or a clasp to a necklace. We did have a marvellous 1920s bag with a mirror base and a large carved, enamel clasp which had to be twisted in a particular way to open the bag. You can find lovely, unique accessories inside what appears to be a fairly plain handbag, too.
Q: Do you have a vintage fashion icon or inspiration?
A: Too many to mention in terms of designers but Christian Dior is one of my favourites. I love those designers who also designed for the cinema such as Adrian, Edith Head and Irene Lentz and any of the actresses they dressed.
A vintage advert for Dior shoes.
Dior’s ‘Soirée de Lahore’ dress, 1955.
Q: Equally, do you have a contemporary fashion icon or inspiration?
Q: Can you see the influence of past styles on contemporary fashion? If so, what would an example of this be?
A: Oh, yes. Nothing seems to be new. There was a recent resurgence of 1950/60s fashions, as well as the 1970s with maxi dresses (which, of course were pre-dated by earlier fashions!). I do wonder if future fashion will ever be as exciting as the developments that occurred during the 1910s – 60s.
Of course, fashion historians will be able to point to other great periods in history. As the way we live changes, so will the way we dress so it’s interesting to see how young fashion designers will translate that into fashion and accessories.
Q: Why do you think vintage fashion is becoming so popular? In your opinion, would the popularity of programmes such as Downton Abbey or Mr Selfridge have anything to do with this?
A: Popular culture has always influenced fashion so it’s no surprise that very successful period dramas have contributed to the continuing popularity of vintage fashion. There have also been a lot of anniversary events around the two World Wars and I think that has increased the interest in the 1940s, in particular.
The way in which we celebrate our lives has also been influenced by popular culture and social history. We’ve seen customers buying vintage for birthdays, weddings and anniversaries. Sometimes, it’s been a Mad Men birthday party or a 1930s wedding. I once had three ladies in one afternoon all going to the same 1940s party but none of them knew each other. None of them liked to dress in unfamiliar clothing! (With each lady, I looked at our reference books, discussed what they already had in their wardrobe and accented it with an accessory or advice on hair).
Matthew Goode and Michelle Dockery in ‘Downton Abbey,’ 2010-2015.
Lily James as Lady Rose in ‘Downton Abbey’ 2010-2015.
Q: What would you say to someone with a newly found interest in vintage and historical fashion? Any tips or advice?
A: I would recommend joining the mailing list of the Fashion & Textile Museum in London. They have some fabulous exhibitions. I would advise anyone wanting to buy vintage to be discerning – for me, there’s a difference between vintage fashion and old clothing. Good vintage will cost more but it’s worth it for the superb tailoring and quality of the fabrics. I have some customers who come to Stardust Years because they’ve become collectors and buy investment pieces. Others, are looking for a high-end piece of fashion that’s unique and won’t be identifiable as a “High Street piece.” Then there are those customers who just want to enjoy wearing the fashions and feeling a little closer to the past.
Also, always try on a garment – and never over jeans! I love wearing vintage but shapes have changed – plus, we’re all individuals! I’ve never agreed with fashion sizes – we don’t fit a designated size. For this reason, I never buy my vintage wardrobe online.
Finally, remember there are no rules – you don’t have to go for the “complete” vintage look. Sometimes, it’s just as much fun and stylish to put the past with the present and create an individual look for you.
Q: Is there any era that you dislike in terms of the fashion trends? If so, why is that?
A: The 1970s – I remember it the first time round – and I wasn’t keen on it then!
Though, looking back, I do admire what designers like Zandra Rhodes and Emilio Pucci achieved.
Q: What do you think we can learn from vintage and historical fashion?
A: The way people lived their lives, how our values have changed and how much effort went into creating something – whether it was a dress or a handbag. People comment that our stock is in very good condition (most of it, anyway!) and that’s generally because, people didn’t have many clothes. “Sunday Best” was exactly that. Hardly worn and very well looked after because their “Sunday Best” was the only Best they had.
I’ve seen haute couture items by Dior, from the 1940s and 50s, which were constructed with wide inner seams so that as the wearer’s shape changed, the fashion house could alter the dress, accordingly. Nowadays, we live in “disposable” times – if something breaks, needs a part or needs letting out, we don’t mend it, we throw it away and just buy a replacement.
Q: Have you ever encountered an item with a really fascinating history attached?
A: We have a costume once worn by actress Glenda Jackson in the film The Incredible Sarah, based on the life of Sarah Bernhardt. The designer, Anthony Mendleson was nominated for Best Costume Design in 1976 (but lost out to Danilo Donati’s Fellini’s Casanova). It has a gorgeous circular train and would be a beautiful wedding dress. We also have a fur wrap believed to have been worn by actress, Vivien Leigh.
Sometimes, the most interesting items are the ones that come with clues to their owner/wearer’s life eg the 1930s clutch bag that has a theatre ticket inside it, dated the 18th of August, 1945. When we find such clues to its past, we always keep the item with the vintage piece. I once had a 1940s suit with a damaged skirt. The jacket was priced but the customer had to take the skirt, too (at no charge, of course). I couldn’t bear to have them parted, not after they had been together for over 75 years!
Q: Is there anything else you’d like to add?
A: Just that if you find a vintage item remember, it is just like you; individual and unique – you won’t find anything like it anywhere else!
Q: Thank you so much for your time.
A great many thanks to Karen for taking the time to answer my questions, I loved reading your responses. Stardust Years will be celebrating its third birthday this weekend. To help celebrate in style, there will be free signature cocktails as well as the return of the TLC Rail, and vintage ‘Rescue Remnants,’ going free to a good home! On Sunday afternoon, between 1 and 3pm, Stardust Years will also be joined by Virginia Hannan, Bespoke Dress Design who will be available to offer tips and suggestions on dress design and alterations.
More information can be found on Karen’s Stardust Years blog, and on their Facebook page.